Christmas Star

[sandy123]

Here's a prototype of a Christmas Star that I tried out in the back garden. It's made from two layers of exterior plywood (with spacer). At the back of each layer are sections of RGB strip, all soldered together and controlled by a three channel controller on standalone mode.
The LEDs reflect the light back off the solid surface and give the silhouette effect. Looks better in real life, but the video
 gives an idea of the effects it gives. If you're not too confident in soldering, then have a practice beforehand.  
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_eBH3C...sp=sharing

I'm now converting some old Halogen Floodlights into LEDs (Green Superflux LEDs) and fitting a controller in each, to light the front of my house up in a green glow for Halloween, to compliment last years Pumpkin face and masks etc. If they look ok, I'll post the results

[sparkylights]

it looks very nice
gives a good effect too,

[TomP]

That gives a really nice effect, not overpowering and quite subtle but very noticeable.

[sandy123]

Thanks!
Now in the process of building two 'final versions'.
Should be able to run both from one 3 Channel controller and a 12v 6Amp supply. 3 Amps load for both stars combined, I'm assuming the 6Amp supply is rated at least 80% efficient, so it should handle that load each evening for a month without any problems..
I'd advise anybody that's gonna solder, to use 60/40 Tin-Lead, and avoid the Lead free stuff (better joints with the Tin/Lead solder). I also used Servisol Silicone Sealant and Adhesive (potting compound) to back up the end caps on the strips. Don't use ordinary silicone sealant as the acetone etc. will corrode the circuit board and solder joints

[TomP]

Hi Sandy, don't know if this would be any help but I have had more success soldering with lead-free using a syringe of flux normally used for SMD applications and putting a small blob on the pads prior to soldering.

Cheers

Tom

[sandy123]

Hi Tom.
Yep, I've used the same technique on SMD. My preference for Tin/Lead is because it has a lower soldering temperature compared to Lead free, and also a faster wetting time. Less chance of Thermal damage to boards or components. The joint is also shiny (easy to spot a dry joint) and less brittle. For the purpose of light displays, the temperature and humidity won't be a problem if Lead free is used. On boards and the soldering points of the LED strips, I'm still uncertain about 'Tin Whiskers' causing shorts. Don't know how long it would take for them to form. For the 'Hobbyist' and people unfamiliar with soldering, I'd still recommend Tin/Lead with a Rosin based flux (but don't breathe the fumes!). Then they don't have to worry about what type of flux they are going to use and whether it needs cleaned off afterwards. Hope that wasn't too long winded (ha!ha!)