03-03-2017, 04:45 PM
Hi Tom.
Yep, I've used the same technique on SMD. My preference for Tin/Lead is because it has a lower soldering temperature compared to Lead free, and also a faster wetting time. Less chance of Thermal damage to boards or components. The joint is also shiny (easy to spot a dry joint) and less brittle. For the purpose of light displays, the temperature and humidity won't be a problem if Lead free is used. On boards and the soldering points of the LED strips, I'm still uncertain about 'Tin Whiskers' causing shorts. Don't know how long it would take for them to form. For the 'Hobbyist' and people unfamiliar with soldering, I'd still recommend Tin/Lead with a Rosin based flux (but don't breathe the fumes!). Then they don't have to worry about what type of flux they are going to use and whether it needs cleaned off afterwards. Hope that wasn't too long winded (ha!ha!)
Yep, I've used the same technique on SMD. My preference for Tin/Lead is because it has a lower soldering temperature compared to Lead free, and also a faster wetting time. Less chance of Thermal damage to boards or components. The joint is also shiny (easy to spot a dry joint) and less brittle. For the purpose of light displays, the temperature and humidity won't be a problem if Lead free is used. On boards and the soldering points of the LED strips, I'm still uncertain about 'Tin Whiskers' causing shorts. Don't know how long it would take for them to form. For the 'Hobbyist' and people unfamiliar with soldering, I'd still recommend Tin/Lead with a Rosin based flux (but don't breathe the fumes!). Then they don't have to worry about what type of flux they are going to use and whether it needs cleaned off afterwards. Hope that wasn't too long winded (ha!ha!)